An IMEI is a unique 15-digit identifier for a phone’s cellular hardware. It is not the phone number, SIM card number, or manufacturer serial number.
You can find the IMEI by dialing *#06#, checking Settings > General > About on an iPhone, or opening About phone on Android.
Dual-SIM and eSIM phones may have two identifiers: IMEI 1 and IMEI 2. They identify separate cellular connections on the same device.
An IMEI check can reveal a phone’s model, carrier status, financial restrictions, and blacklist status, depending on the available database.
Check the IMEI before buying a used phone. Compare the number shown by the device with the number on the SIM tray or original box.
An IMEI number is a unique 15-digit identifier assigned to a mobile device that connects to a cellular network. IMEI stands for International Mobile Equipment Identity. It identifies the phone’s cellular hardware—not the owner, phone number, SIM card, or personal data.
You can find your IMEI by dialing *#06#, opening the device settings, checking the SIM tray, or looking at the original box. If your phone supports Dual SIM or eSIM, it may show two identifiers: IMEI 1 and IMEI 2. These numbers identify separate cellular connections on the same device.
An IMEI is not the same as a serial number. Carriers use the IMEI to manage network access, blacklist lost or stolen devices, and identify cellular hardware. Manufacturers use the serial number for warranty, repairs, and production records.
An IMEI check can show the device model, original specifications, carrier or SIM Lock status, financial restrictions, and blacklist status, depending on the available database. It cannot reveal your photos, messages, passwords, or real-time location.
Before buying a used phone, verify the IMEI shown by the device itself and compare it with the number on the SIM tray or original box. Then check the number through a reliable database to make sure the phone is genuine, not blacklisted, and suitable for use on your network.
If your phone supports dual-SIM technology (a physical SIM and an eSIM), it will have two identifiers: IMEI1 and IMEI2. Both numbers point to the same physical device, but they represent different network connection pathways. Verifying both codes ensures that neither slot is blocked by carriers.
What Is an IMEI Number Used For?
An IMEI is used by carriers and manufacturers to identify the cellular hardware in a phone. It can help determine whether a device is reported lost or stolen, financed, carrier locked, or associated with the specifications claimed by the seller. Checking the IMEI before buying a used phone is crucial. It reveals if the device is reported stolen, blacklisted, or tied to an unpaid carrier account.
If someone stops paying their carrier installment plan, or if a phone is reported lost, the carrier places a network block on that specific IMEI. Sometimes, sellers try to offload these blocked phones on peer-to-peer marketplaces before the bans fully update across the network.
Expert Tip: Always match the IMEI displayed on the screen (by dialing *#06#) with the one printed on the physical box or SIM tray. This ensures the motherboard hasn't been swapped into a stolen housing.
Many comprehensive can also flag activation locks tied to cloud accounts (such as Apple's iCloud or Google's Factory Reset Protection). While the global IMEI database focuses on network blocking, third-party services use your IMEI to identify the hardware and cross-reference it with the manufacturer's cloud servers. Let's say a previous owner performs a factory reset without properly signing out. In that case, the phone will still request their original credentials upon startup. Running your code through a checker that includes an activation lock report helps you avoid buying a device you can't even activate.
Retrieving your IMEI is standardized across all Android and iOS platforms. You can find it using the dialer, inspecting the physical device, or navigating the system settings. It's usually best to rely on multiple methods. This is especially true if the phone has screen damage or you suspect software tampering.
1. Dial #06#
Open the Phone app, dial *#06#, and press the call button if necessary. The IMEI will appear on the screen immediately. This method works on most cellular phones and does not require an active SIM card.
2. Check the Phone, SIM Tray, or Original Box
If the device won't turn on, physical engravings are your best bet. You can typically find the IMEI in these locations:
On the SIM card tray: Common on many Apple iPhone models. Eject the tray to read the microscopic numbers on the outer edge.
On the back glass or chassis: Often laser-etched or printed on a specialized sticker on Samsung and other Android devices.
Under the removable battery: Typical for older smartphone models.
On the original retail box: Look for a robust sticker containing the model number, serial number, and network identity codes near the barcode.
3. Find the IMEI in Device Settings
This software-level check provides the precise device identity data currently running on the motherboard.
iOS: Go to Settings > General > About. Scroll down to find the physical and electronic SIM network identification section.
Android: Go to Settings > About Phone (or About Device) > Status.
Note: Many modern systems allow you to long-press the number to copy it directly to your clipboard.
What Information Does an IMEI Check Reveal?
The 15 digits of an IMEI do not directly contain your phone’s complete history. An IMEI check matches the identifier against manufacturer, carrier, and blacklist records. The information available depends on the database and the device model. Running the IMEI through a verification database confirms the exact model name. It also checks the financial status with major US carriers to see if the device is fully paid off or still financed under an equipment installment plan.
Most importantly, it checks the global blacklist status, which dictates whether the phone can legally broadcast a cellular signal.
A standard 15-digit equipment identifier is composed of three distinct structural segments. The first eight digits constitute the Type Allocation Code (TAC), which serves to identify the specific manufacturer brand and the exact device model version. This is followed by a six-digit Serial Number (positions 9 through 14) that uniquely identifies the individual hardware unit within that particular production line. Finally, the 15th position is reserved for a Check Digit, which utilizes a mathematical algorithm to validate the structural integrity of the entire code string.
IMEI vs. Serial Number: What Is the Difference?
An IMEI is not the same as a serial number. The IMEI identifies cellular hardware for network purposes, while the serial number identifies the device within the manufacturer’s warranty and service systems.The IMEI is a universal standard regulated by an external global telecommunications body. Cellular carriers use it to manage network access and security.
The serial number, on the other hand, is a proprietary, variable-length alphanumeric string. The manufacturer creates it to track factory production, warranty claims, and retail inventory. Carriers do not use serial numbers to block phones.
How the IMEI Blacklist Works
When a phone is reported stolen or lost, the carrier adds its IMEI to a central Equipment Identity Register managed by the GSMA.
Before this shared database existed, a stolen AT&T phone could easily be activated on T-Mobile. Now, when a carrier flags an IMEI locally, it pushes the update to the global registry. Within hours to several days (depending on the country), participating carriers download the list, blocking the device from the global cellular network.
A blacklisted phone loses all baseband privileges, though it can still connect to Wi-Fi networks. The mathematical integrity of the IMEI is verified using the Luhn algorithm. This checksum formula easily detects manual typing errors.
What to Do If You Discover a Blacklisted IMEI
If an IMEI check returns a blacklisted status while you are with a private seller, abandon the transaction immediately.
If you already bought the device online, leverage buyer protection policies on platforms like PayPal, eBay, or Swappa. Take a screenshot of the failed verification report and submit a formal claim stating the item cannot be activated.
Ignore third-party services offering to "unblacklist" or clean the device for a fee. These are unauthorized, temporary software manipulations. Only the original account holder can legally request the removal of a carrier block by paying the outstanding balance or verifying they recovered their lost property.